Then measure the depth of the master cylinder piston with the other end of the pin on the tool. First measure the length that the booster pushrod extends past the face of the booster with the "head" of the pin. The following illustration demonstrates the proper usage of this tool. To make 100% certain of a properly adjusted booster pushrod for your master, we offer a master cylinder depth gauge (PN: CP2003) to determine correct pushrod length. In almost every case, if you bought your booster and master cylinder from us, we pre-adjust the booster pushrod and master cylinder for you so this is not a problem. Too much clearance will cause excessive freeplay in the pedal. Since the master cylinder is not allowed to fully release the pressure from the previous stroke, the system will eventually lock the wheels. When the system is preloaded, it builds pressure each time the pedal is pressed. Interference will preload the master cylinder. Ideally there should be only slight clearance between the booster pushrod and the master cylinder pushrod. Last edit at 07:20AM by TDHoward.The pushrod that actuates the master cylinder must be properly adjusted. The end of the piston is right out against the lock ring.Įdited 1 time(s). How far should the push rod be inserted into the M/C hole? If there's something to stop it, it's missing. I feel like the push rod is too deep in the hole in the M/C piston. Although it seems secure, I don't like it. In order to get 1/4" of play the threaded rod is screwed almost all the way out of the yoke. In the shop manual,it indicates that the pedal slop ( I think the book calls it free play) should be 1/16 to 1/4 before pressurinzing the brakes, and that this travel is adjusted by way of the threaded rod and yoke of the M/C push rod. The peal is plenty stiff when engaing the M/C, but. Steel lines are all good, and flex hoses "appear" to be good, but will be changed as soon as I get the new ones. Removed cleaned and unstuck the master cylinder, bled all brake lines until I got brand new clean DOT 3 from each wheel cylinder. She even moved under her own power, out of the garage and backed back in, with only the hand brake slowing and providing the stopping power. running, and idling OK with the help of the board and finally getting the 65 manual.
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